|

15
Raft the Raging Coruh
Don't let the sleepy little town of Yusufeli fool you:
Right in its backyard is one of Turkey's most raging
rivers. Run the Coruh River and you'll be taking on Class
IV and V white water, with craggy mountain scenery
surrounding you. Unfortunately, a proposed dam could soon
wipe out this spectacular stretch of rafting. In that case,
head south for the Dalaman River, near Koycegiz on the
Mediterranean, where Class III and IV thrills are on tap
from April to October.

16
Trek the Kackar Mountains
The Turks love their hot springs, which are especially
satisfying after some tough mountain trekking. The Kackar
Mountains in northeastern Turkiye provide the inviting
backdrop; hike from the village of Barhal across the
mountains to Ayder. This town's trump card is the hot
springs, where you can soak away your aches and pains in
waters of up to 133 degrees. In high summer, staying in
Ayder also gives you a chance to get a glimpse of the
culture of the Hemsin people, one of Turkey's little-known
minority ethnic groups. Maps of the mountains are woefully
inadequate, but you can easily hire a guide in Ayder or
Barhal. To get to Ayder, take the weekly Turkish Maritime
Lines ferry from Istanbul to Rize and head up into the
mountains by bus. For Barhal, you'll need a dolmus (shared
taxi) from Yusufeli or let us arrange everything you need.
17 Flamingos in the Sultan Marshes
Storks, spoonbills, herons: The Sultan Marshes, near Nigde,
has them all. And in summer, the fringes of its twin lakes
turn pink in a cloud of flamingos. The village of
Ovaciftlik serves up basic accommodations where you can
arrange boat trips out into the marshes. If you prefer to
walk, bring sturdy shoes (there are snakes in the long
grass). Goreme, Avanos, and Urgup travel agencies arrange
bird-watching excursions; just be aware that the prices
are pretty high unless you come in a group.

18
Snowshoe Through Cappadocia
Magical in summer, the Cappadocian landscape becomes even
more wondrous when its cones and crevasses are blanketed
in deep snow. In winter, Tourka leads snowshoe-wearing
groups around the villages. Most nights you stay with
local families, but the last is spent in a converted
monastery in Guzelyurt, where you dine off long tables in
the refectory like the long-gone Greek monks before you.

19
Canyoning in Saklikent Gorge
Cowards merely walk into the Saklikent Gorge, near Kas. So
avoid that fate and rappel down from the rim of a canyon,
with walls so steep that the sun never reaches the floor.
Once at the bottom, you can hike 12 miles through the icy
waters of the river and jump down assorted waterfalls
along the way. After a long, cold day, it's good to know
that local restaurateurs serve freshly cooked trout on
wooden platforms suspended over the river. Some platform
owners will even let you spread your blanket beneath the
stars.
20
Explore Georgian Valleys
If you love ancient monuments almost as much as unspoiled
mountain scenery, head up into the valleys off the main
road leading from Erzurum to Yusufeli in northeastern
Turkey. Here huge, crumbling churches serve as poignant
reminders of a time when this region was part of the
Kingdom of Georgia. In summer, any car can negotiate the
dirt tracks to reach the churches; in winter, this is 4WD-only
territory. Local guides will lead you on treks to the most
remote churches, almost lost now in thick vegetation.

|